Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Spaces
Every 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted stop. Close by, a police siren pierces the almost continuous road noise. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds gather.
This is maybe the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. However one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with round purplish grapes on a rambling garden plot situated between a line of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of Bristol town centre.
"I've noticed individuals hiding heroin or other items in the shrubbery," states the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He's organized a loose collective of growers who make wine from several hidden city grape gardens nestled in private yards and community plots across the city. It is sufficiently underground to have an official name yet, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.
City Vineyards Around the Globe
So far, the grower's allotment is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which includes more famous urban wineries such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of the French capital's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and more than 3,000 vines with views of and inside Turin. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them throughout the world, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Vineyards assist cities stay greener and ecologically varied. They protect land from development by creating permanent, yielding farming plots within cities," explains the association's president.
Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a product of the soils the vines grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who care for the fruit. "Each vintage represents the beauty, local spirit, landscape and history of a urban center," adds the president.
Mystery Polish Variety
Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he grew from a plant left in his allotment by a Eastern European household. If the rain comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to feast once more. "Here we have the mystery Eastern European grape," he comments, as he removes damaged and rotten grapes from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to spray them with chemicals ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Soviets."
Group Activities Throughout Bristol
The other members of the group are additionally making the most of bright periods between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden overlooking Bristol's glistening harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of vintage from France and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 plants. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a container of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the car windows on holiday."
The humanitarian worker, 52, who has spent over 20 years working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to someone else so they can continue producing from the soil."
Terraced Gardens and Traditional Winemaking
Nearby, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has established more than 150 plants perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, Scofield, 60, is picking bunches of deep violet dark berries from lines of vines arranged along the cliff-side with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can make intriguing, enjoyable natural wine, which can sell for upwards of £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can truly make quality, traditional vintage," she states. "It's very on trend, but really it's resurrecting an old way of making wine."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins and enter the liquid," says Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and red liquid. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to kill the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced yeast."
Challenging Environments and Inventive Approaches
A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to establish her grapevines, has gathered his friends to pick white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a northern English physical education instructor who taught at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to Europe. However it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with a smile. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable local weather is not the only challenge encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has been compelled to erect a fence on